There are times when wearing makeup is not what we choose and in fact may never be an option for some of us. This article is about how to look good without makeup or with less makeup. Topics include my beauty “Law of the Vital Few”, looking good naturally, tips for continuously improving skin texture and health, and easy hacks for a minimal makeup style.
How to Look Good Without Makeup
I believe in and live by the 80/20 rule in almost every area of my life. The rule, also known as the Law of the Vital Few, states that roughly 80% of outcomes are derived from just 20% of inputs (i.e. 80% of sales comes from 20% of customers). In my pre-retirement business life, this was a rough measurement used to predict behavior and to prioritize work efforts.
I believe this same principle applies to beauty. In a world where so many products and techniques are peddled, only a few-let’s say 20%-are truly transformative and impactful. Particularly for the over 50 woman.
To that end, I would like to share my “Vital Few” perspective along with the products and techniques that can make us look good and better sustainably over time. Without the help of any or much makeup.
It’s a short 20% list with an 80% maximum impact.
So what gives us the biggest beauty bang for our buck? Much of it entails improving the skin to a point where it can more easily take center stage. It also involves leveraging makeup with the purpose of minimizing the use of makeup.
Let’s look at this through the lens of 5 separate categories:
- Skincare Optimization
- Sunscreen Optimization
- Skin Preparation
- Color Correctors
- Law of the Vital Few 80/20 Makeup
Tip 1: Optimizing Skincare for a No Makeup Look
Creating the best canvas possible in the form of facial skin is the first step to looking good with a minimal makeup or no makeup look.
A basic skincare routine that includes cleansing, toner (optional), moisturizer, and sunscreen is a great place to start for the skin. In fact, my first blog post here on this site was a primer on that topic. With that said, the daily routine I describe is mere skin table stakes compared to the potential of what can be done.
Skin optimization consists of adding and using products and techniques that continuously improve the skin over time. These skincare products are called “active ingredients”. For those of us with mature skin, they provide product efficacy to really address more gnarly skin issues: wrinkles, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, age spots, and laxity.
It’s a high bar.
For a powerful skin transformation step-up, consider 3 types of products. They all serve different purposes. Arguably in order of priority and ability to transform, they are:
- Retinoids
- Exfoliants
- Vitamin C Serums
Please note that each of these product types is a weighty topic and multi-post worthy. For our purposes here, each discussion is relatively cursory to describe the ingredients, benefits, and important interplay between them.
For more detailed information, I have referenced and linked other articles below.
Retinoids
Retinoids are a well-studied class of compounds derived from Vitamin A. They work by binding to specific receptors in skin cells and regulating cellular processes. This regulation promotes skin cell turnover, improves skin texture, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Of significance as well is their proven ability to stimulate collagen which in turn improves skin elasticity and laxity. Not many products or processes can do that.
There are 4 different types of retinoids. See the chart below with benefits and some highly reviewed products within each category. Links for products are below the chart.
Sunday Riley A+ Serum; CeraVe Retinol Serum; Differin Gel .1%; Effaclar Adapalene.1%; Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1; Avene Retrinal .1 Intensive Cream
All types of retinoids very likely require some period of skin adjustment that may include irritation, dryness, flakiness, and patience to see its benefits. With that said, it’s worth the time investment, and there are ways to mitigate the side effects.
As an example, below are my unedited 5-month results from using Tretinoin.
If you have a dermatologist, I encourage you to speak with him/her about Tretinoin for your skin, the risks, ramp-up, benefits, etc.
If OTC is more your speed, the world is your oyster, as many products now have retinol in them.
Another option is to subscribe to one of a growing number of online prescription skincare companies like Agency, Musely, Curology, Apostrophe, etc. that use Tretinoin (and other active ingredients) in their regimens.
I am currently using Agency for Tretinoin (and other prescription active ingredients). For more information on how all of that works, here is my in-depth Agency review here.
Exfoliants
Second on the priority list, behind using a Retinoid, are exfoliants.
An exfoliant is a product or treatment that either physically or chemically removes dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. As we age, our body becomes less able to exfoliate on its own efficiently.
If unaided, the result is a build-up of dead skin cells on the skin’s surface. The complexion will appear dull, rough, and dry. Removing the dead skin cells exposes more luminous and smooth skin.
Retinoids and Exfoliants complement one another. Retinoids regulate the shedding of skin cells and exfoliants remove them. The ingredients together are truly greater together than the sum of their parts.
Given the thinning of the skin as we age, I highly recommend opting for a Chemical exfoliant over a physical exfoliant. For more detail, visit my article on Chemical Exfoliation here.
In the meantime, here is one of my favorite chemical exfoliants.
Sunday Riley Good Genes
This product leverages Lactic Acid for its exfoliation and is a long-time Holy Grail for me.
Vitamin C Serum
Vitamin C is critical for skin health and appearance. From brightening and evening out skin tone to synthesizing collagen and protecting against sun damage, it is another superhero ingredient and especially for the issues that aging skin faces.
Below is a chart that summarizes the many Vitamin C benefits.
If interested, my article here walks through much more detail on topical Vitamin C.
After using Vitamin C for decades, the most significant benefit I have noticed is skin brightening, dramatically improving skin texture and some lightening of brown spots. While many experts talk about Vitamin C’s ability to build collagen, that benefit is less effective for some individuals than others and is not something I have experienced.
Here are a few of my favorites:
obagi C-exfoliating day lotion
This product works as a chemical Glycolic Acid exfoliant and a Vitamin C serum. It is a Holy Grail and one of a kind. The skin noticeably brightens and hydrates.
Sunday Riley CEO 15% vitamin c Brightening Serum
This has a very hydrating and glowing effect.
skinceuticals CE ferulic
This Vitamin C serum is considered the gold standard. I wish it weren’t so expensive but it is darn good and incredibly skin supportive. I cycle on and off this particular product depending on how rich I am feeling, but I always return.
A Final Note
Should you decide to move forward with one or more of these products, it is important to stagger how you apply them relative to morning and evening as well as days of the week. For instance, an exfoliant applied together with Tretinoin at the same time can result in a lot of irritation.
I will be writing about this more in the near future.
In the meantime, if you have any specific questions, please feel free to reach out to me.
Tip 2: Optimizing Sunscreen for a No Makeup Look
Most of us know now about the importance of sunscreen and many of us wish we had used it earlier in life.
We may also know that to maintain any improvement in our skin, it is critical not only to use sunscreen every day but also to reapply it throughout the day. But, how many of us really do that?
Sunscreen powder is a type of product gaining a lot of traction that addresses this reapplication gap. It’s easy to use during the day without the mess of a liquid.
It also straddles the world of skincare and makeup. Depending on the product, it comes in a variety of shades and finishes (glow, matte, sheer). It’s light makeup with a skin-worthy purpose.
Here are a couple of recommendations.
colorescience sunforgettable brush-on sunscreen
Multiple shade options, 50 SPF, and 100% mineral.
Hawaiian tropic mineral sunscreen powder
This 30 SPF powder has just one shade that is more yellow-tinted. If you have fair skin, it offers a brightening effect. This probably wouldn’t be an option for darker skin.
Tip 3: Hydration for a No Makeup Look
There’s a reason why many of the world’s best makeup artists spend a lot of time prepping clients’ skin prior to applying any makeup. Moisturizing well and hydrating the skin not only provides a more even textured canvas for makeup but it also gives the face a healthy glow even without makeup.
Charlotte Tilbury, the celebrity makeup artist, created a now well-known product called Magic Cream specifically for this prepping process. It was so transforming and beautifying that she marketed it.
I believe in products like this. They can be worn all on their own and offer a skin but better look.
While many love Magic Cream, I’m not a huge fan as it’s a little drying for my skin.
Here is an alternative Kiehl’s product that while not marketed as such, is very well suited for a Magic Cream kind of result with nourishing skin ingredients.
Pro Tip: there are 2 versions of this product (with and without sunscreen). The sunscreen adds a little extra glow.
kiehl’s super multi-corrective cream with sunscreen
Tip 4: Color Correction for Minimal Makeup
If the skin is not on its best game with blemishes, dark circles, redness etc, consider using a color corrector first before any kind of traditional concealer or makeup. It’s a secret weapon that helps maintain a very minimal makeup look.
A color corrector will “neutralize” whatever color you want to eliminate. The amount of makeup needed thereafter will be drastically reduced.
If you are interested in what colors neutralizes what, visit the chart in the Free Resource Library here.
Tip 5: 80/20 Makeup
Looking good with less makeup is much easier to achieve when the skin is well tended. With that said, if some makeup is desired, the approach still employs the 80/20 Law of the Vital Few.
Focus on just a couple of impactful products-maybe even a makeup capsule-for a big beauty return. For me, it would be brows, lips, and lashes.
With good skin, the look is an even better one!
What I am wearing: moisturizer, sunscreen powder, color corrector, lip gloss, brow pencil, eyeliner and mascara
In Conclusion
This post is dedicated to those of us who want to wear no or less makeup and still look great. This minimal makeup approach makes skin the star of the show and involves choosing a few active ingredients that continuously and sustainably improve the skin. Makeup choices revolve around a less is more mentality and result.
Long live the 80/20 Law of the Vital Few!
Thank you for reading!
xO
Andrea
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Sandy C. says
Welllll……your advice is all excellent, but as I’ve said before, makeup, well applied in the amount needed to camouflage and/or accentuate features is, IMO, the most effective means of looking your best. For a lot of us it can be truly transformative. Keeping your skin tone and coloration uniform in the senior years can get pricey and takes some work – you’re fighting nature. That being said, you share some great information on how to do this for those who have the resources. Keep the good information coming!