Sunscreen is one of the most effective anti-aging topical treatments and it is exciting that more information has been uncovered over the past several years relative to skin damage and protection from the sun. This post shares old and new information on this subject. Topics include what sunscreen is, how it works, ultraviolet light, HEV light, SPF, chemical and physical sunscreens, types of sunscreen, and what options are best for your face.
Recommended sunscreen products are at the end of the post.
Types of Sunscreen
From sump pumping excess water from my yard to weeks of non-stop rain, it truly has been a wet, dark, and dreary beginning to the year here in Northern California. Writing a post about sunscreen may seem well a bit…shall we say…untimely.
But, stay with me here as I begin with a quick story.
In the earlier days of COVID, during non-stop Zoom calls and endless all-day toiling in front of a computer, I had a facial from a woman who had “worked” on my skin for a number of years. She remarked (and I probably didn’t want to know) that my skin had aged dramatically from the few months previous. I wasn’t alone apparently. Many of her other clients were aging quickly too.
Computer Screens and Sunscreens
She unequivocally attributed this to more computer screen time with no sunscreen protection. What? She was correct that I was not applying sunscreen after rolling out of bed, throwing on a shirt, and brushing my teeth. After all, I was only going to sit in my home office all day.
Could the computer screen cause the kind of rapid photoaging she (and I!) was seeing?
To state the obvious, many, probably most of us, know about the importance of wearing sunscreen. As a skincare aficionado, I certainly did.
However, my surprise at her comment triggered an awareness. Perhaps what I knew about sunscreen was relatively superficial and outdated. I understood to use it outdoors and to include it in my skincare routine, however, beyond that, I was a little fuzzy on details. What was even less clear to me was when to wear it (indoors) and why, what type to use, and even really what types of sunscreen existed.
If you want to learn or relearn the down and dirty of sunscreen as well as some newer important information, this article is for you. A lot of research is happening as we speak in this field, and I believe the momentum is building for more. As a result, many new sunscreen products and product types are emerging.
My hope is that the information here will better inform your choices and at the end of the day, help to improve and anti-age your skin.
What is Sunscreen
At its most basic, sunscreen is a substance that helps protect the skin from the sun’s more harmful rays. Sunscreen is also known as sunblock. The ingredients in it protect by blocking, absorbing, or scattering the rays.
What has changed in recent years is new research and findings around what sunscreen can and should protect from along with a number of newer product types on the market.
Today, sunscreen provides protection against 3 different types of rays. Protection against HEV is relatively new:
- Ultraviolet A (UVA)
- Ultraviolet B (UVB)
- High Energy Visible Light (HEV also known as Blue Light)
To better depict what sunscreen protects against, below is an illustration of the light spectrum and where UVA, UVB and HEV light resides.
Important to know:
- Wavelengths: Light is measured in wavelengths. The top black squiggly line represents those wavelengths. The shorter the wavelength the higher amount of energy. Higher energy increases the potential damage from the light.
- HEV light is visible and resides most closely to ultraviolet light on the spectrum and therefore has a closely related wavelength.
- While HEV light is visible, ultraviolet light is invisible to the naked eye.
UVA and UVB
While both UVA and UVB rays are ultraviolet, they are still different wavelengths (i.e. differing energy and power) and therefore cause different damage to the skin. The picture below depicts this.
While they each penetrate and damage skin at different levels, both UVA and UVB cause lasting damage, accelerated aging, and skin cancer.
HEV/Blue Light
Like UVA and UVB, most HEV light is emitted by the sun. With that said, the damage done to our skin and eyes from this light is mainly from man-made technology devices. These include smartphones, TVs, computer screens, tablets, LED bulbs, etc. The increased length of time and proximity of these devices to us results in greater potential damage to our skin (and our eyes).
It is now known that HEV light causes the skin to age prematurely just as it is now known that HEV light causes damage to the eyes and specifically the corneas.
The summary chart below details the characteristics and differences of each:
SPF
Most of us know that sunscreens are rated by a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) label, but here are a few more facts:
- SPF specifically pertains to the measurement of the protection against UVB-not UVA-light.
- A higher SPF does not mean more effective sun protection. Rather, the SPF number correlates to the amount of time the sunscreen is expected to protect an individual from UV light contrasted with the length of time it would take the individual to burn without the sunscreen.
- Since it is difficult to predict an individual’s “burning time”, an average of 30-50 SPF along with reapplication every 2 hours is suggested. Choose a higher SPF if you are fair-skinned and burn easily.
- Only Broad-Spectrum sunscreen protects against UVA and UVB. That identifying label should be on the container.
- A new UVA measurement of protection is emerging called a PA factor. It ranges from + to ++++. The more +, the more protection.
- Despite the SPF number, no sunscreen is 100% effective.
Types of Sunscreen
There are 2 main types of sunscreen: physical (also called mineral) and chemical. Their unique active ingredients define them.
Physical/Mineral Sunscreen
The active ingredients in physical/mineral sunscreen are zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. These ingredients protect the skin by forming a coating on the skin that reflects and scatters rays.
As you consider a purely physical sunscreen, note:
- The higher the SPF, the thicker the sunscreen texture. The sunscreen may also show a white cast that is difficult to blend (easily) on the face.
- Given the blend-ability factor, many manufacturers add silicone such as dimethicone to ensure a smoother application. This addition results in a slippery feel to the formula much like a makeup primer.
- For effective Broad-Spectrum coverage, Zinc Oxide should be at 10% or higher particularly if there is no chemical sunscreen ingredient included.
- Zinc Oxide is more effective than titanium dioxide particularly for blocking UVA rays. True Broad-Spectrum coverage needs either zinc oxide alone or zinc oxide and titanium dioxide together-never titanium dioxide alone.
Chemical Sunscreen
Chemical sunscreens are characterized by active ingredients that are not either zinc oxide and/or titanium dioxide. The most common are Avobenzone, Octinoxate, Oxybenzone, Meroxyl among others.
Chemical sunscreens protect the skin by absorbing the UV rays and then converting them into heat and releasing them from the body. In contrast to physical sunscreen, the ingredients make for a very blendable effective formula.
With all of that said, there is controversy about some of the ingredients. This includes:
- Bleaching Coral Reefs. It is believed that some of the ingredients in chemical sunscreen have and are bleaching coral reefs. Hawaii has banned Oxybenzone and restricted the use of Octinoxate in sunscreens. Japan has restricted the use of Oxybenzone.
- Hormone Disruption. Oxybenzone has been linked to hormone disruption in people. While there is nothing conclusive, there is a possible link.
- Skin Irritation and Allergies. The chemicals in sunscreen are more likely to cause skin irritation and allergic reactions than physical sunscreen ingredients.
HEV/Blue Light Blocking
In order to protect against visible light like HEV/Blue light, it is critical that the sunscreen used is visible vs invisible. Therefore, the best option is a tinted Physical Sunscreen which has the added ingredient of Iron Oxide to it. Iron Oxide provides the color.
This type of sunscreen is what I now wear while working in my home office on my computer.
Hybrid Sunscreens
Hybrid sunscreens contain a combination of both chemical and physical ingredients. They can be a good compromise and can counterbalance the downsides of each sunscreen type. The addition of a chemical sunscreen to a physical for instance tempers the thickness and white cast of the physical ingredients.
My personal category preference is hybrid just because of how they well they apply and how they feel on my skin.
What are the Best Types of Sunscreen?
The best type of sunscreen is truly that which is suited for each individual’s needs and there are multiple factors to consider. Know what you are protecting from: are you outdoors, are you sitting indoors but in front of a window, are you in front of a computer all day etc. Additionally, the better it feels on the face, the more easily it will fit into a daily skin routine.
Sunscreen Reapplication
Realistically, many of us will not reapply sunscreen every 2 hours as recommended particularly while indoors.
My suggestion on the daily is to layer your sunscreen. Ensure it is part of your daily skincare routine and then layer a foundation with SPF or tinted SPF moisturizer on top of that. Reapplication can also be in the form of an SPF powder. I have recommended one below.
On a final note, I learned a tremendous amount researching this and have changed my own sunscreen habits and products. I am very interested to see what new sun protection advances and discoveries are made in the next several years. After all, it is still the easiest way for skin to look its best.
Let me know what sunscreens you are using!
Sunscreen Product Recommendations
Elta MD
A fantastic dermatologist recommended, and award-winning line dedicated primarily to physical and hybrid sunscreens. I encourage you to explore the line and company website here. In the meantime, I have specific recommendations below.
ColoreScience
They have a line of award winning predominantly physical/mineral sunscreens and sunscreen foundation type products. A couple are very innovative (one is my holy grail) and I have listed below. Explore the company here.
Drmtlgy
This is a newer kid on the block and I have just recently heard about them through my Agency Skincare Facebook group (see my review on Agency here). I have heard enough so that they are next on my “to try” list. Read more about them here.
ELTAMD BROAD-SPECTRUM SPF 44
100% physical tinted sunscreen along with hyaluronic acid. It looks great underneath makeup or as a light foundation by itself. Also contains iron oxides for blue light blocking.
ELTAMD BROAD-SPECTRUM SPF 46
This is a wonderful hybrid physical and chemical sunscreen. It contains Niacinamide and applies like a moisturizer. Available in both tinted and clear versions.
colorEscience sunforgettable total protection brush-on shield spf 50
This is a self-dispensing mineral tinted powder sunscreen that makes reapplication easy work. 100% mineral/physical along with iron oxide.
DRMTLGY UNIVERSAL TINTED MOISTURIZER SPF 46
This is a best seller and is a hybrid physical and chemical tinted moisturizer/sunscreen that also contains Hyaluronic Acid and Niacinamide.
ilia super serum skin tint spf 40
This is a holy grail product for me and does triple duty. A combination of a sheer foundation, skin nourishing serum, and 100% physical sunscreen. It contains iron oxide for blue light.
This post served as a refresher and update of the best sunscreen protection choices for your face. Topics included what sunscreen is, how it works, ultraviolet and HEV light, SPF, chemical and physical sunscreen types, and what options are best.
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Andrea
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